You need 4 things.
Eggs
Cold water
A pot large enough to cook them in a single layer
Heat
Everyone has a way to cook them but this method always works and the part that I find the most unpleasant, peeling the shell, takes no time at all.
1) Put eggs in pot and cover with 1 inch cold water.
2) Over medium heat bring to a boil and turn to a gentle simmer.
3) Cook for 5 minutes.
4) Turn off the heat and leave for 5 minutes.
5) Pour off the hot water and rinse with cold until cool enough to handle.
6) Crack each egg, put back in the pot, cover with cold water and let them sit for 10 minutes.
7) Remove the shell, it will slip right off.
8) Rinse and dry with paper towels. They are ready to use or store them in the refrigerator.
chef@matthewbabbage.com with any questions.
Some easier ideas about living in a NYC apartment, simple recipes and solutions that anyone can use.
Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Saturday, June 27, 2009
Soft Shell Crabs

My first experience with crab, cooking for the All You Can Eat Alskan King Crab Leg Buffet. Things were different though when someone said " try this " and gave me a whole crab with a light crispy crust. Not knowing what to do I tried removing the shell and eating the contents. With a few kind words and a little instruction I was eating something that would change the way I cook.
Soft shell crabs are seasonal and available from early May to July and typically are blue crabs, Callinectes sapidius. Due to weather and fishing conditions they are at times not available. As the crabs grow they shed their exoskeleton which has become too small or "molt". They emerge with a soft covering and are "soft shells" ready for harvest. In as few as four days the shell begins to harden and they become " tinbacks" and will be a little crunchy when prepared. As they are caught, fishermen hold crabs beginning to molt until the cycle is complete and they are sent to market.
Buy the most active ones, they are not very strong out of water but watch for them to move. If the smell is not right keep looking. Kitchen trick, blow on them and watch to see if the eyes move. If this is something new start small and I recommend no more than two per person. Have the fish man clean them, you can do it yourself but it is easier to show you than trying to explain. If you are up to it there are many resources or email me at chef@matthewbabbage.com and I will give you step by step instructions. Cleaned or live do not let them get tossed in a plastic bag, have them put in a small flat container with dry towels or even better some of the straw they are shipped in. Get them home and in the refrigerator as soon as possible and eat them that day. I recommend the following preperation.
1) Mix 1 cup all purpose flour with 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper.
2) Put the crab on a clean plate and blot dry with paper towels.
3) Heat a 10" saute pan over medium heat with a 1/4 inch of vegetable oil until it is almost smoking. If you have a deep fryer heat to 350 degrees.
4) Two at a time press the crabs in the flour so they have a heavy coating on each side.
5) Shake off the excess flour and put them top side down in the hot oil. Be careful, as you put them in the pan lay them away from you so it splashes away rather than toward you.
6) Cook until brown, flip and cook the other side for a minute or two.
7) Remove and drain on paper towels.
8) They are ready.
The flavor is delicate, in my restaurant I serve them with caper mayonnaise. 1/2 cup mayonnaise mixed with the juice from 1/2 lemon and 1 tablespoon chopped capers. It does not mask the flavor and lets you enjoy the subtleness of the crab. Maybe a glass of crisp cold white wine is the only other thing I can think of.
Friday, June 19, 2009
chef 1.0
I have been asked more times than I can remember what is required to be “Chef”. Not sure what is really being asked I answer a question with a question. “What do you mean”? My first apprehension is the way it is asked, not “what does it take to be a chef” but “what does it take to be Chef”. It would be the same if the question was “What does it take to be Coach, Captain, Team Leader, Mother or Father. The question is not easy to answer and anyone asked would have a different answer with as many similarities as differences. Experience in what you do will give you the knowledge to answer your own question.
I stop and think about what I will say since this needs my full attention and the one seeking guidance has come to me looking for support. I demonstrate what being “Chef “is and lead by example, this is not a time to send them away until later. I have worked in kitchens my whole life and have learned more how not to do things than how to do them. Maybe this is for the best since I work every day to make sure I don’t treat my culinary crew like they are expendable. Work hard to be the best you can not forgetting how you started and remember that you are only as good as those who support you is the answer I always give.
I stop and think about what I will say since this needs my full attention and the one seeking guidance has come to me looking for support. I demonstrate what being “Chef “is and lead by example, this is not a time to send them away until later. I have worked in kitchens my whole life and have learned more how not to do things than how to do them. Maybe this is for the best since I work every day to make sure I don’t treat my culinary crew like they are expendable. Work hard to be the best you can not forgetting how you started and remember that you are only as good as those who support you is the answer I always give.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Food 101
To all aspiring culinarians there are a few things that need to be understood when starting a job. You are the new person and it is like starting at a new school, keep your head down and watch what is going on around you. First impressions go a long way and your survival depends on being excepted.
1) Keep a notebook and use it.
2) Know your schedule.
3) Show up for work before your start time.
4) Be ready to work when you get there.
5) If a uniform is not supplied make sure you know what you are expected to wear.
6) Buy a good pair of shoes with no slip soles and wear them.
7) Wash your hands before you begin and keep washing them throughout your shift.
8) Buy one good chef’s knife. It does not have to be expensive but comfortable to use. Keep it sharp and clean.
9) Before you begin make sure the chef knows you are in and ask what is expected of you.
10) Become an asset not a liability. Make yourself indispensable.
11) Don’t forget to always be polite and do not forget your manners. Please, thank you and excuse me go a long way.
12) Understand you have chosen to work in a field which is always changing. Be flexible and ready to do what is asked.
13) When asked a question use one of three answers; yes chef, no chef and I don’t know chef.
14) Before you cook “your own food” show you can follow direction, demonstrate an understanding of fundamental cooking techniques and ask before you change anything.
15) Leave your cell phone at home.
1) Keep a notebook and use it.
2) Know your schedule.
3) Show up for work before your start time.
4) Be ready to work when you get there.
5) If a uniform is not supplied make sure you know what you are expected to wear.
6) Buy a good pair of shoes with no slip soles and wear them.
7) Wash your hands before you begin and keep washing them throughout your shift.
8) Buy one good chef’s knife. It does not have to be expensive but comfortable to use. Keep it sharp and clean.
9) Before you begin make sure the chef knows you are in and ask what is expected of you.
10) Become an asset not a liability. Make yourself indispensable.
11) Don’t forget to always be polite and do not forget your manners. Please, thank you and excuse me go a long way.
12) Understand you have chosen to work in a field which is always changing. Be flexible and ready to do what is asked.
13) When asked a question use one of three answers; yes chef, no chef and I don’t know chef.
14) Before you cook “your own food” show you can follow direction, demonstrate an understanding of fundamental cooking techniques and ask before you change anything.
15) Leave your cell phone at home.
Sunday, June 7, 2009
June 7th
Today is my oldest daughter Ashley's birthday she is 21, I remember the first time I held her, it does not seem like it was that long ago but it was. Her birthday has always been a way to date everything and not being there does not mean that I am not thinking of her. She was difficult to feed as a baby and picky as she grew. There was always one thing I knew she would eat if nothing else, egg and toast. I make it the same way now as I did then and is easy with a few instructions. Start with soft butter and do not try to substitute, use a shot glass and cut out the center of a piece of plain white bread. Heat a non stick pan over low heat, make one at a time and do not crowd the pan. Butter both sides of the bread and put in the pan, crack the egg in to a small dish making sure you don't break the yolk, get rid of a little of the white and pour the egg in the center of the bread and cook for a minute or two. Use a plastic spatula and flip it over being careful not to break the yolk and cook until it is golden brown. Salt and pepper is all you need and it is ready to eat. Don't forget to butter and toast the piece of bread you cut out with the shot glass it is the best part.
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