Soft Shell Crabs

My first experience with crab, cooking for the All You Can Eat Alskan King Crab Leg Buffet. Things were different though when someone said " try this " and gave me a whole crab with a light crispy crust. Not knowing what to do I tried removing the shell and eating the contents. With a few kind words and a little instruction I was eating something that would change the way I cook.

Soft shell crabs are seasonal and available from early May to July and typically are blue crabs, Callinectes sapidius. Due to weather and fishing conditions they are at times not available. As the crabs grow they shed their exoskeleton which has become too small or "molt". They emerge with a soft covering and are "soft shells" ready for harvest. In as few as four days the shell begins to harden and they become " tinbacks" and will be a little crunchy when prepared. As they are caught, fishermen hold crabs beginning to molt until the cycle is complete and they are sent to market.

Buy the most active ones, they are not very strong out of water but watch for them to move. If the smell is not right keep looking. Kitchen trick, blow on them and watch to see if the eyes move. If this is something new start small and I recommend no more than two per person. Have the fish man clean them, you can do it yourself but it is easier to show you than trying to explain. If you are up to it there are many resources or email me at chef@matthewbabbage.com and I will give you step by step instructions. Cleaned or live do not let them get tossed in a plastic bag, have them put in a small flat container with dry towels or even better some of the straw they are shipped in. Get them home and in the refrigerator as soon as possible and eat them that day. I recommend the following preperation.

1) Mix 1 cup all purpose flour with 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper.

2) Put the crab on a clean plate and blot dry with paper towels.

3) Heat a 10" saute pan over medium heat with a 1/4 inch of vegetable oil until it is almost smoking. If you have a deep fryer heat to 350 degrees.

4) Two at a time press the crabs in the flour so they have a heavy coating on each side.

5) Shake off the excess flour and put them top side down in the hot oil. Be careful, as you put them in the pan lay them away from you so it splashes away rather than toward you.

6) Cook until brown, flip and cook the other side for a minute or two.

7) Remove and drain on paper towels.

8) They are ready.

The flavor is delicate, in my restaurant I serve them with caper mayonnaise. 1/2 cup mayonnaise mixed with the juice from 1/2 lemon and 1 tablespoon chopped capers. It does not mask the flavor and lets you enjoy the subtleness of the crab. Maybe a glass of crisp cold white wine is the only other thing I can think of.