Saturday, October 23, 2010

It is getting colder and time to start cooking on the weekend.

Working in a restuarant does not mean I get to eat. Unless I make time to sit, not in my office, and have something to eat I won't. I am not a picker or eat the entire day while I cook. I only taste to make sure things are seasoned well and taste good. I seem to loose my appetite since I am smelling everything cooking it is so much a part of taste I guess you fill up just being in the kitchen.

On days I off I like to cook for my family. I make a few things that can be eaten later in the week with just a little effort having to make a few sides and reheat the main. It makes it easy to have dinner after a busy day and not order take out. Below is a recipe for short ribs. It is eay and requires only a few things. If you don't have a Dutch oven use something else and cover with tin foil. If kecap manis is hard to find you can use soy sauce but try low sodium. There is a difference with soy sauce and some are not good at all. I keep several types of Kikkoman and it is used in place of salt quite often. Please let me know if you have any questions and as always I can be reached at chef@matthewbabbage.com


Soy Braised Short Ribs

Serves 4

6 2x3 short ribs (about 4x3x2)
2 tablespoons coarse ground black pepper
1 table spoon kosher salt
1 cup ap flour
3 carrots peeled and medium dice
4 stalks medium dice
1 large onion medium dice
5 slices of ginger
2 cups red wine
1 cup kecap manis, Indonesian style soy sauce
Water
½ cup vegetable oil


Place a Dutch oven or heavy pan with a fitted lid over medium-high heat with oil. Combine salt, pepper and flour in a large bowl and dredge the ribs pressing the seasoned flour into the ribs. Put the ribs in oil and sear until browned on both sides, remove ribs to a plate and pour out all of the oil except about one tablespoon. Add carrots, celery, onions and ginger season with salt and pepper and sweat until just softened. Pour in the wine making sure you scrape anything stuck to the bottom and reduce by half. Add kecap manis and short ribs and add enough water to almost cover. Cook over medium heat for about two hours or until tender. Serve with sticky rice.

Saturday, October 16, 2010

Nicole at Ed's Lobster Bar


This is Nicole La and works at Ed's Lobster Bar http://www.lobsterbarnyc.com/ at 222 Lafayette St. in Manhattan. I have lived in Little Italy for several years and just went the first time a few weeks ago. Inviting from the outside and a comfortable interior it is a place frequented by locals and tourists. The two times I have been in it has taken a few minutes sitting at the bar before anyone was able to get to me, I was a bit uncomfortable but settled in.
The raw bar is nice and you can see that great care is given in handling and preparation. I have sworn off eating raw oysters but could not resist when a large plate with several types of oysters came with fresh grated horseradish mixed with a little white wine vinegar, cocktail sauce and Mignonette. I watched as each one was opened, this is something you either can or cannot do, there is really no middle. I am not saying it can't be learned but it is easy to tell in the first few seconds if someone has what it takes. After opening Nicole carefully inspects each one, it goes on a bed of crushed ice and since you are sitting at the bar she serves you. You can see the satisfaction taken by being the professional she is.
I also had clam chowder and it is some of the best I remember having anywhere. I am pleased when it arrives that it has not been thickened, it is made well but the two times I have had it it is a little different. They do have a black pepper mill and I like it with a few heavy grinds and they have Westminster Oyster Crackers. These are good in their own and even better in chowder.
I have only been in for a quick bite always around opening time and it starts to fill up immediately so I cannot comment on the lunch or dinner menu. What we have had has always been enjoyable, it is not inexpensive but the quality explains why.
I have not met Ed. The two times I have sat at the bar he, it must be him with the Lobster Bar logo tattooed on his forearm, is surrounded by a grateful clientele that seem to be followers.
I have had the opportunity to meet Nicole, she has worked at Ed's for over one year and started working the raw bar. She has recently been promoted to raw bar manager but continues to work the station every day since there has been no suitable replacement. Not only would they have to open oysters and clams they need to replace the presence she has. Her warmth and outgoing personality, two things not all of us are capable, skill and self confidence are difficult to find when trying to hire a replacement. I sat with her for about 1/2 hour today and asked a few questions.

How long have you been in NY? About 10 years, before that NJ.

How long at Ed's? 1 and 1/2 years, before that I worked at a place in the LES as a manager of a restaurant. I like this more since I get the opportunity to use my culinary training.

Tell me about your recent promotion. I worked the raw bar and am now the raw bar manager but I have found no one to replace me. Today I have a guy from Maine trying out. His family is in the lobster business so I am hoping that it works.

Do you pick the oysters? No. Ed buys all the seafood. When I have someone to work I will help.

What is you favorite food? It is kind of hard to say. Working in this business does not mean you always eat well. We do a family meal here at work taking turns who cooks. I like more of an Asian diet and have stopped eating wheat and dairy. As far as my favorite it is chocolate. No particular kind, maybe a Snickers bar.

Where did you train? ICE the Institute of Culinary Education.

Why did you choose a culianary career? I like to bake and am good at it. From this I was working in and office and decided I should do what I am good at went to ICE and here I am.

Music, do you have a favorite. I like so may kinds, I can say I don't like country.

If you have the chance it is a great spot. Good beer on tap, a nice selection of wine and an opportunity to sit and let everything else go by for a minute. It can wait and will still be there when you finish. Say hello to Nicole and let her know that you read this.

Any questions or comment I can be reached at chef@matthewbabbage.com