How to cook, clean, eat and survive NYC.

Quinoa

2011-09-27T15:45:00.001-07:00

Quinoa for breakfast

My diet had to change. Instead of eliminating all my favorites, high in calories and fat, I started by eating quinoa for breakfast. Commonly mistaken as a grain it is a seed that has remained unchanged for 100’s of years.

It is quite good with a nutty flavor, high in protein, folate, iron and zinc. Heat one-cup soy milk, and one half cup quinoa about 10-15 minutes or until the seeds burst, add one tablespoon agave syrup and one half cup blueberries.

The total caloric intake between 325 and 350 calories, low in fat and a good source of fiber. The breakfast I want to eat, two eggs with two pieces bacon plus the butter to fry the eggs is almost 400 calories and high in saturated fat and not a good source of fiber.

It is difficult and at times I have no discipline. Eating before I go to work, in a big kitchen full of all the things I am trying to avoid, I don’t pick and do not have that ravenous feeling all morning and overeat.

I can then eat a large lunch and indulge a little by having cheese on my salad and grilled chicken. It’s tough. There are too many things ready to eat and we all have so little time.

Last week I met Bill and Sarabeth Levine at the National Arts Club where Sarabeth was making scones and signing her new book Sarabeth’s Bakery, From My Hands To Yours. Bill makes the famous Orange and Apricot Marmalade and brought a jar for everyone. The next day I put it on my quinoa, only 30 calories a tablespoon I used two and then ran out.

Today in the mail I received a package from the Levine’s, a large jar of Marmalade, I know what I will eat in the morning.

Thank you Bill.

As always I welcome your questions and comments.

Matthew Babbage

Salt

2011-07-31T15:13:00.000-07:00

Salt has been used as a preservative for 1000s of years and is an essential part of our daily diet.

Sea salt and table salt have the same basic nutritional value and consist mostly of two minerals, sodium and chloride. Sea salt can be a more natural and healthy alternative and the difference between it and table salt are taste, texture and processing.

Sea salt, produced through evaporation with little processing leaves behind some trace minerals and elements adding flavor and color and come in a variety of coarseness.

Table salt, mined from underground salt deposits is more heavily processed to eliminate trace minerals and usually contains an additive to prevent clumping. Most table salt also has added iodine, an essential nutrient that appears naturally in minute amounts in sea salt.

By weight, sea salt and table salt contain about the same amount of sodium chloride. The average person needs only a couple hundred milligrams (mg) a day to stay healthy, but most get too much hiding in processed foods.

Whatever you like, try to consume between 1,500 and 2,300 mg of sodium a day if you're a healthy adult.

Something taken for granted today has a long and at times violent history, wars have been waged for control of salt deposits and now the new war on too much salt in the foods we eat.

Storage is not difficult and if kept clean and dry it will last indefinitely. Store in a cool, dry place away from any heat source or sunlight.

You should use a container that can be well closed after each use and be careful not to introduce any water when you are measuring or scooping it out of it’s container.

Glass with a tight fitting lid is the best choice being impervious and not transferring other flavors. If you are reusing something to store the salt you should also inspect the lid for damage and make sure it is clean and will not pass any flavors or odors from previous use.

Vacuum sealing is another good option, but it is very important when using any plastic to make sure it is food grade and not reused for food safety and sanitation reasons.

The great thing is that you do not have to buy large amounts and can have many types of salt in your panty.

I have, in my small NYC kitchen, kosher, table, sea, Himalayan and black salt. Each one was purchased for a specific reason and has their use but working in a professional kitchen I find myself always reaching for the kosher first.

Try what you like, and use in moderation, you can always add more but once you have added to much it is really difficult to fix.

I have found several salt grinders that I like. They contain several ounces of salt in a small bottle and you use it just like pepper mill. My favorite is is from The Salt Authority http://www.saltauthority.com/sea-salt-grinder.htmland and is inexpensive. They have a lot of great stuff.
If you have any questions or comments pleas email me at chef@matthewbabbage.com.

Joe Poon

2011-04-17T16:30:00.000-07:00

I returned to Philadelphia last Thursday. Took the day off from work, on a 6:05am train from Penn Station, got to Philadelphia at almost 8:00am and went to an all day 10 course Chinese Banquet cooking demonstration by Chef Joe Poon.

If you have never had the opportunity to be part of one of Joe's classes, lectures or meet him it would take too long to explain what you have missed.

With his energy and enthusiasm it is hard to keep up.

I was one in a group of eight culinary professionals taking part in the class led by Chef Poon offered through The American Culinary Federation.

Me, I have known Chef Poon for several years first meeting him at the Philadelphia Flower Show. He spoke to the audience like they were gathered around the kitchen in his home while he wields a knife and produces a floral arrangement out of some unsuspecting cantaloupe, honey dew and watermelon.

Our day started with tea and traditional Chinese pastries. We spent about 1/2 hour in the kitchen and then did a tour of Philadelphia's China town. I have been there and eaten in so many of the restaurants but I was shown a different side. Traveling the streets with Chef Poon I no longer felt like an outsider.

We stopped at different places to eat things I never have before. I have been changing my diet for personal reasons over the last year and now I know pig offal will not be missed. Since I was there it would have been wrong not to try it and I would have felt as though I was insulting Chef Poon. It was not so bad and now I have a better understanding of a culture that is not mine. I am sure I eat things others would never try.

After our tour we returned to Joe's kitchen at 1010 Cherry street around 11:00am and started preparing our banquet, as Joe instructed us on proper culinary technique he also explained the health benefits of each food. One of the most important things, to me, learned is in the Chinese kitchen there is a specific reason for each action and movement, nothing wasted.

First up Joe's Roast Duck. I have tried for a long time to reproduce the duck you get in a Chinese restaurant with little or no success. In 10 minutes Chef Poon solved the mystery with simple explanation and concise direction.

For the next five hours the Chef had everyone in the group take turns at the wok.

We continued turning out plate after plate each dish being prepared under the instruction of a man who has dedicated his life teaching others what he knows.

I could not say what my favorite things were that day other than the roast duck but the jelly fish soup, abalone and fried rice I have already made in my little NYC apartment. They don't taste quite the same but as with anything, the more times you do it the better it gets.

Since starting to cook at an early age I realized there is more learning from my mistakes than any other time.

I hope to return to the Chef's kitchen before too long. It felt like coming home to a place I have missed.

Chef Poon's website http://www.josephpoon.com/ is a wealth of knowledge and offers so many things to do, the Wokn Walk Tour looks like a lot of fun, the spring/summer lobster feast that you could not find anywhere else at twice the price should not be missed.

As always I look forward to questions and comments. www.chef@matthewbabbage.com

The Sandwich

2011-04-16T02:04:00.000-07:00

Standing on line at a neighborhood store I picked up, started reading and purchased Saveur magazine The Sandwich Issue http://www.saveur.com/sandwiches/.
I have always been a sandwich person, everything form pb& j, my mother's grilled cream cheese and her homemade jam for me as a child since I was a picky eater, and almost anything else that can be put, stuffed, piled or "gently placed" inside two slices of your average white bread, pita, matzo, roll or hunk that you tore off the end of a loaf of Italian or French bread.

This is an issue you must add to your collection. Next to my desk is a large stack of magazines, even though so much information is available on line I like periodicals. The feel and smell of the pages, it is to me visceral and the pictures fuel my imagination and transport me to the past reminding of places I been. I am fortunate having many of the sandwiches described.

Many articles are written about food and it's importance. We eat during holidays, special family meals, celebrations, for tradition, the list can go on forever but the main reason is we eat to survive.

From such a humble beginning we have elevated the "sandwich" to something ethereal, taken something simple and made it something hard to describe.

This is not bad, pizza has done the same thing. We look to always improve what we do but the funny thing is that no matter how hard you try even something like peanut butter and jelly on sliced white bread does not need much. Sometimes I like things unadulterated, unchanged. There is a place for Wonder bread, Skippy and some inexpensive grape jelly, add a glass of cold milk and it fits.

Like pasta every culture has one that is known around the world.
From Shawarma to Bocadillos, French dip to Bahn Mi, ham and swiss on rye to Carolina pulled pork the list and combinations are infinite.

Breakfast this morning will be fresh bread from Parisi Bakery parisibakery.com, still warm. As I write this I am waiting for Alleva's, http://www.allevadairy.com/, America's oldest Italian cheese store to open and whatever Robert recommends will go on the bread with some fresh mozzarella. If you walk by early morning you can watch it being made and also smell when they are smoking it.

As always I look forward to questions and comment. chef@matthewbabbage.com

Thanksgiving 2010

2010-11-26T10:18:00.000-08:00

If patience is a virtue cooking in a NYC apartment is truly a test. I am cooking at home this morning for my wife, four dogs, two cats and one parrot, my furry, feathered family.

Having done a few things after work last night I was up early and walked the dogs had two cups of China town coffee, have my ipod on, I have taken what I watched my mother made growing up and changing things a little.
First up, I am not used to cooking for only two people. Time to scale back and think about everything involved. I started by discussing, with my wife, what we would have. Turkey, stuffing, gravy, mashed potatoes, baked yams with maple syrup and marshmallows, creamed pearl onions, macaroni and cheese, asparagus, and pumpkin pie.

I began by cleaning the refrigerator, it sounds like a strange place to begin and I know it has been done in the last six months but where did this stuff come from? The cabinets were next and it was the same as the refrigerator. I am not sure how things accumulate. By being organized before I began cooking, I didn’t waste money on things I already had, only bought what I needed and don’t have more stuff to try and find a place to keep.

I started at 6:00am, target dinner time 2:00pm, making pumpkin pie. I tried a different crust recipe than the one I always use, I will go back to the usual. I peeled potatoes and yams, put them in the pans and covered with water until later.

The stuffing is made from sliced white bread, celery and onion, turkey stock and sage with a little salt and pepper. It is the same way I remember my mother making it when I was a child.

Next I mixed one quarter pound soft butter with black pepper, kosher salt, and one tablespoon each rosemary, sage, parsley and thyme and spread it all over the turkey including under the skin. At 10:30 it went in a 400 degree oven for one half hour then I turned the heat to 350 degrees. It should have taken about three hours to cook, the formula is approximate but it is about fifteen minutes per pound, a 12 pound turkey cooks for three hours. Don’t ask me how but in two hours it was done. Fortunately for me I had everything ready to finish in the oven or on the stove top. I took the turkey from the oven at 12:30pm, removed it from the roasting pan to a large plate and covered it with foil to keep it warm.

The gravy was next. In the bottom of the roasting pan, under the turkey, I had put diced onion, carrot and celery. I added some turkey stock to the roasting pan that the turkey was cooked in and put the pan over a medium flame to deglaze and scrape up all the browned bits. As this cooked I mixed about one half cup all purpose flour with cold water and whipped it making sure there were no lumps and stirred it into the roasting pan of turkey drippings. It cooked for about five minutes and then I strained it and adjusted seasoning with salt and pepper. It is really quite good made this way and again is the same way I remember my mother making it.

We ate at 1:30pm, one half hour early. The best part of the day is being home with my family and cooking for them.

A few simple things that work for me and made it easier and less stressful.

Clean as you go. Make sure you have a list of everything needed. Stick to your list, making adjustments if necessary. It is better to have a few very good things rather than trying to have too much. Plan for the unexpected, for me it was the turkey cooking in less time. Don’t wait until the last minute to buy what you need, I bought the last can of pumpkin on the shelf. Your turkey needs to thaw in the refrigerator not on the kitchen counter. I recommend using kosher salt and this year used a pepper mill and fresh herbs, you will be pleasantly surprised. Most importantly remember to be thankful for what you have.
I look forward to your questions and comments and would love to hear of your successes and the close calls. Please send you emails to chef@mathhewbabbage.com .

It is getting colder and time to start cooking on the weekend.

2010-10-23T13:07:00.000-07:00

Working in a restuarant does not mean I get to eat. Unless I make time to sit, not in my office, and have something to eat I won't. I am not a picker or eat the entire day while I cook. I only taste to make sure things are seasoned well and taste good. I seem to loose my appetite since I am smelling everything cooking it is so much a part of taste I guess you fill up just being in the kitchen.

On days I off I like to cook for my family. I make a few things that can be eaten later in the week with just a little effort having to make a few sides and reheat the main. It makes it easy to have dinner after a busy day and not order take out. Below is a recipe for short ribs. It is eay and requires only a few things. If you don't have a Dutch oven use something else and cover with tin foil. If kecap manis is hard to find you can use soy sauce but try low sodium. There is a difference with soy sauce and some are not good at all. I keep several types of Kikkoman and it is used in place of salt quite often. Please let me know if you have any questions and as always I can be reached at chef@matthewbabbage.com

Soy Braised Short Ribs

Serves 4

6 2x3 short ribs (about 4x3x2)
2 tablespoons coarse ground black pepper
1 table spoon kosher salt
1 cup ap flour
3 carrots peeled and medium dice
4 stalks medium dice
1 large onion medium dice
5 slices of ginger
2 cups red wine
1 cup kecap manis, Indonesian style soy sauce
Water
½ cup vegetable oil

Place a Dutch oven or heavy pan with a fitted lid over medium-high heat with oil. Combine salt, pepper and flour in a large bowl and dredge the ribs pressing the seasoned flour into the ribs. Put the ribs in oil and sear until browned on both sides, remove ribs to a plate and pour out all of the oil except about one tablespoon. Add carrots, celery, onions and ginger season with salt and pepper and sweat until just softened. Pour in the wine making sure you scrape anything stuck to the bottom and reduce by half. Add kecap manis and short ribs and add enough water to almost cover. Cook over medium heat for about two hours or until tender. Serve with sticky rice.

Nicole at Ed's Lobster Bar

2010-10-16T10:55:00.000-07:00

This is Nicole La and works at Ed's Lobster Bar http://www.lobsterbarnyc.com/ at 222 Lafayette St. in Manhattan. I have lived in Little Italy for several years and just went the first time a few weeks ago. Inviting from the outside and a comfortable interior it is a place frequented by locals and tourists. The two times I have been in it has taken a few minutes sitting at the bar before anyone was able to get to me, I was a bit uncomfortable but settled in.
The raw bar is nice and you can see that great care is given in handling and preparation. I have sworn off eating raw oysters but could not resist when a large plate with several types of oysters came with fresh grated horseradish mixed with a little white wine vinegar, cocktail sauce and Mignonette. I watched as each one was opened, this is something you either can or cannot do, there is really no middle. I am not saying it can't be learned but it is easy to tell in the first few seconds if someone has what it takes. After opening Nicole carefully inspects each one, it goes on a bed of crushed ice and since you are sitting at the bar she serves you. You can see the satisfaction taken by being the professional she is.
I also had clam chowder and it is some of the best I remember having anywhere. I am pleased when it arrives that it has not been thickened, it is made well but the two times I have had it it is a little different. They do have a black pepper mill and I like it with a few heavy grinds and they have Westminster Oyster Crackers. These are good in their own and even better in chowder.
I have only been in for a quick bite always around opening time and it starts to fill up immediately so I cannot comment on the lunch or dinner menu. What we have had has always been enjoyable, it is not inexpensive but the quality explains why.
I have not met Ed. The two times I have sat at the bar he, it must be him with the Lobster Bar logo tattooed on his forearm, is surrounded by a grateful clientele that seem to be followers.
I have had the opportunity to meet Nicole, she has worked at Ed's for over one year and started working the raw bar. She has recently been promoted to raw bar manager but continues to work the station every day since there has been no suitable replacement. Not only would they have to open oysters and clams they need to replace the presence she has. Her warmth and outgoing personality, two things not all of us are capable, skill and self confidence are difficult to find when trying to hire a replacement. I sat with her for about 1/2 hour today and asked a few questions.

How long have you been in NY? About 10 years, before that NJ.

How long at Ed's? 1 and 1/2 years, before that I worked at a place in the LES as a manager of a restaurant. I like this more since I get the opportunity to use my culinary training.

Tell me about your recent promotion. I worked the raw bar and am now the raw bar manager but I have found no one to replace me. Today I have a guy from Maine trying out. His family is in the lobster business so I am hoping that it works.

Do you pick the oysters? No. Ed buys all the seafood. When I have someone to work I will help.

What is you favorite food? It is kind of hard to say. Working in this business does not mean you always eat well. We do a family meal here at work taking turns who cooks. I like more of an Asian diet and have stopped eating wheat and dairy. As far as my favorite it is chocolate. No particular kind, maybe a Snickers bar.

Where did you train? ICE the Institute of Culinary Education.

Why did you choose a culianary career? I like to bake and am good at it. From this I was working in and office and decided I should do what I am good at went to ICE and here I am.

Music, do you have a favorite. I like so may kinds, I can say I don't like country.

If you have the chance it is a great spot. Good beer on tap, a nice selection of wine and an opportunity to sit and let everything else go by for a minute. It can wait and will still be there when you finish. Say hello to Nicole and let her know that you read this.

Any questions or comment I can be reached at chef@matthewbabbage.com

NYC street festival food.

2010-06-03T11:53:00.000-07:00

I have always worked in restaurants, big small, my own, private clubs, strip joints you name it. Dealing with health inspections are never easy and get more difficult each year. The new format for NYCDOH inspectors to follow is 14 pages in length and covers so many things, each one very important in providing any food service establishment serves food that is safe to eat, it will take several hours to conduct an inspection. As I pour through each page I know that the company and people I work for place food safety and sanitation as a priority and that we, as a company and each individual, are doing everything to insure the well being of our guests. I support the policies, rules and regulations of the NYCDOH and also have an obligation to serve only food that is safe to eat.

To open any food service establishment in New York City you need to have time and money for all administrative, permitting, legal fees and a thorough knowledge and understanding of what is required.

operate.http://www.nyc.gov/html/doh/html/inspect/insp2.shtml

Not so when you serve food at a street fair/carnival/festival. I went online this morning and found this site. It is the "Citywide Licensing Center Temporary Food Service Established Application Permit".

http://www.nyc.gov/html/doh/html/inspect/iguide.shtml

You fill out the form and clicking the highlighted words written in blue "Rules and Guidlines for Operating Temporary Food Service Establishments", are certifying that "I understand that I am obligated to comply with the conditions stated herein as well as all applicable provisions of the New York City Health Code and New York State Sanitary Code".

Starting July 2010 any type of permanent food service will be required by law to display a letter grade, A, B, C based on the number of points aquirred during an inspection. This letter grade will tell you not just that a place is clean also that things are being done using safe and sanitary practices.

This is for our protection and there is no way can can just get lucky on the day of inspection. The NYCDOH is not fooling around, but again the temporary vendors are exempt. I know it sounds like I have something against them, temporary food vendors, I do not. I do have problem that there is little to make sure the food served is safe to eat.

Wow, at this point I can only fear for an unsuspecting public, there is no sanitation or food safety training. As I read through the short list of things required for temporary food service estalishements I am shocked. The vendors at this event are in violation of more rules than are complied with.

The man cooking sausage put on a dirty apron, lit his cigarette, did not wash his hands or put on gloves and started cooking while smoking.

There is no handwashing facility or even sanitizer anywhere.

What about bathrooms? Every business in the vacinity has a sign " bathroom for customers only ", one says you have to buy a drink to use the bathroom and one is a 10.00 charge. Where does everyone go?

The picture of the table on the left is an onion slicer. I watched as onions were peeled and sliced and cooked on the grill. This young man put on a dirty apron, opened the bag with a knife that who knows what it was last used for, using the same knife cut and peeled the onions and sliced them. He never washed his hands, wore gloves, washed the table, slicer or anything used for preparation.

The guy in the blue tank top, he mixes the batter for Zeppoles. What you see is the uniform he wears every day.

I welcome your coments as always. M.

Cutting boards, their uses and what to purchase.

2010-06-01T15:16:00.000-07:00

Buying a cutting board is something that most would not stop to consider until needed. With a little research and a bit of planning you can buy what you need without spending too much money.

There are several things to consider before purchase.

Size and shape of you kitchen counter tops. Measure, twice, and find something that fits. Something too big and hangs off the counter is dangerous, it will get knocked or pulled to the floor with it's contents. It is heavy enough to do some damage if it falls on you a child or pet.

Do not cut vegetables, fruit or other ready to eat food on a board that has been used for raw meat, poultry or seafood and has not been washed and sanitized.

I have several boards and each one is dedicated to a specific use.

Red for meat.

Green for fruit and vegetables. I like one for each if not sometimes you have fruit that tastes like onion or garlic.

Yellow for poultry.

Brown for cooked meat.

Black for fish.

Grey for baking.

Cleaning. First scrape any food off, wash with hot soapy water and rinse well. Sanitize with a mixture of one teaspoon chlorine bleach to one quart water, I mix it in a spray bottle. Spray the board and let stand for a few minutes, rinse well and let dry.

Air dry completely and do not stack so that they remain wet.

Store cutting boards so that they stay clean and dry.

Replace cutting boards that are scratched, cracked or cannot be thoroughly cleaned.

I found this set on line, the Chop Keeper
http://www.argeecorp.com/HTML/chopkeeper.htm. They are ok, inexpensive and can be discarded when they become damaged, fit in the dishwasher and come in two sets with six different colors so you can have one for each task.

Please send your questions or comments. M.

How to buy a french or chef's knife.

2010-05-26T04:27:00.000-07:00

A few simple rules. A chef's knife, usually 8" to 12" long is what this short article will focus on.

1) Buy a good knife, it should feel heavy and well balanced. The best are made of high carbon steel and keep an edge well. They are the most expensive and nice to own but if one is not in your budget or you just don't want to spend the money so what. A plain carbon steel knife will perform well for all kitchen tasks. It will need to be sharpened more often, might discolor and not as costly. There are many very good inexpensive knives and how much you spend will not determine how well you cook.
2) The tang. Good knives are forged from a single piece of steel that runs the entire length of the knife, the steel extends all the way into the handle. The steel inside the handle is called the tang, if it goes all the way to the end of the handle, it's called full tang. Full tang knives are balanced better making a knife easier to use.
3) The handle. Buy one that fits. Wood, plastic it is up to you but do not put knives with wood handles in the dishwasher.
4) The heel. The widest part of the knife where the blade meets the handle. Knives with longer blades have better leverage providing greater cutting force at the heel to chop or cut hard things like carrots, or butchering meat.
5) Rivets. If you purchase a knife with a wooden handle make sure the rivets have a smooth finish and do not protrude from the handle

The best advice is buy a knife that fits you and what you would like to spend. The knife will not make the chef or cook what you do with it determines that.

As always your comments and suggestions are welcome. M.

Black bean raspberry salsa

2010-05-25T07:51:00.000-07:00

Summer is not officially here although it will feel like it the next few days. The forcast says 90's today followed by more warm weather the rest of the week.
My work schedule has been interrupted with a schedule change and it is difficult getting used to. I normally work from 6:00am to late afternoon and now I do not begin until 12:00pm keeping me at work until late. Another summer will be missed since I will be inside. I always look foward to the lighter later part and will not get to enjoy it. I try to eat before it gets too late so when I get home I am not ravenous and eat everything in sight. For this reason I make several low fat, protein rich snack foods. One of the household favorites is black bean and raspberry salsa. The recipe is listed below.

Please send your comments, ideas and suggestions. M.

Raspberry, Black bean and Jalapeño Salsa

1 can black beans drained and rinsed
1/4 cup raspberry jelly
2 Tablespoons fresh squeezed lime juice
2 Tablespoons fine diced red onion, after diceing soak in cold water for ten minutes, drain before using
1 jalapeño, seeded and fine diced
1 minced garlic clove
1/4 cup chopped cilantro leaves and stems
Kosher salt and ground black pepper

1) Heat the jelly in the microwave for about 30 seconds, add the lime juice
and mix until it is smooth, strain through a fine mesh sieve.
2) Add everything to a large non reactive work bowl and fold together.
3) Start with 1/4 teaspoon each of the salt and pepper and season the salsa.
4) Refrigerate for an hour and then taste and adjust the salt and pepper if needed.
5) Serve with tortilla chips, warm pita or tortillas.

Corn tortillas have fewer calories than flour and are gluten free.

Acme Bar and Grill

2010-05-24T19:23:00.000-07:00

http://www.acmebarandgrill.com/ It is near my home and I have walked by several times. The fried catfish was very good with a cornmeal crust, the coleslaw, and macaroni and cheese were also prepared well . Me, I am menu inept and always ordering the wrong thing. The po' boy comes several ways and I chose half shrimp and half oyster. I could not really tell what was shrimp and what was oyster, it was kind of a cornmeal breaded deep fried mess. I picked it apart and found a few shrimp and ate them. I did not cause a fuss and spoke to our server, she took it off the bill with no problem. I really did not expect this since I didn't say anything immediately.

Correct restaurant dining etiquette dictates you speak to your server when you know there is a problem. Good manners are important, explain what is not right, be polite, not impossible, and insist it is taken care of. If you are dismissed by someone who tries to make you feel uncomfortable then all rules are off and deal with things as you see fit. With restaurants on every corner and most struggling to stay in business you should not be treated poorly.

This is not the case with Acme. It is a little expensive, it would have been around 60.00 without tip if charged for the sandwich, but good.

Very important, when something is taken off the bill, for whatever reason, your tip should reflect what the total would have been. Servers work hard and a good portion of their wage comes form the tip you leave. Do not make them suffer.

One more thing. I ordered coffee after the bill came, very good, hot and strong, and our server said there was no charge. They get my recommendation and I am sure I will return.

As always I look foward to your questions or comments. M.

How to make ice cream without an ice cream maker.

2010-05-18T04:48:00.000-07:00

I do not have an ice cream maker for several reasons.

1) I am not a big ice cream eater. Even when I was a child I did not care for it along with jello and hamburgers.
2) It would take up too much room, not get used very often and when I did some of the parts would be missing.

I make this when I will have guests. It is easy and I do not buy things I will not use and add to my pantry to later throw away.

Ziplock Freezer Bag Coffee Ice Cream

2 Ziploc Freezer Bags
1 cup milk
(you can use heavy cream, 1/2 and 1/2, skim, 2%, you decide)
Heavy cream at 50 calories per tablespoon will yield the best results and I prefer using it since a small amount is more satisfying. I find that with some low fat/calorie foods I eat more and actually consume more so there is no benefit.
2 Tablespoons table sugar
1/4 Teaspoon vanilla extract
2 Tablespoons instant coffee
Crushed ice
Keeping everything as cold as possible put all ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir well until the sugar has dissolved.
Pour ingredients in the bag and make sure it is sealed. Fill another bag 1/2 full with crushed ice, I make it is the food processor. Add 3 tablespoons kosher salt, place the bag with the ice cream mix in the bag with the ice. Fill the bag the rest of the way with crushed ice and 3 more tablespoons kosher salt.

Gently shake, turn, toss and knead the bag so the mix can get cold enough to make ice cream.
.
After 5 or 10 minutes, the liquid from the inner bag will start to harden and turn into ice cream.

Continue to shake, turn, toss and knead the bag. When the ice cream reaches the consistency you desire, open the Ziploc and remove the bag with your ice cream.

Be sure to rinse off the bag with the ice cream to remove any salt residue. Cut the corner of the bag and squeeze the contents into a pint container with a cover. Put the ice cream in the freezer for several hours. You will need just a small scoop since it is so rich, it is really good with some vanilla or chocolate sauce.

How to clean your NYC apartment refrigerator.

2010-05-15T06:30:00.000-07:00

One more way to help keep your family safe from food borne illness and something that has to be done regularly is keeping your refrigerator clean. Probably one of the least favorite cleaning tasks, it is much easier to maintain by following a few simple instructions. The best time to clean is before you go shopping. Get rid of anything old or after the expiration date, moldy or just taking up room and you will not use. Take inventory and make a list remembering that there is only so much room and if there are too many things the cold air will not circulate well.

1) You need to work fast since leaving food unrefrigerated is never a good idea. If you have a cooler it would be great but since space is already limited I use an insulated shopping bag with a few ice packs.
2) Unscrew the light and find the temperature dial, turn it off.
3) Pull all shelves, drawers and the pieces on the door.
4) Mix 2 tablespoons baking soda with 1 quart warm water.
5) Wash the interior with the baking soda solution.
6) Wipe with a damp cloth followed by a dry one.
7) Wash all the interior parts using a mild solution of dish soap and cool water. Do not use hot water since the parts are cold and plastic and glass my crack. Rinse then dry with a clean cloth.
8) Carefully pull the gasket away from the door and wash with the soap solution and dry with a clean towel.
9) Reassemble the interior parts.
10 Replace the light and turn the dial so it is on.
11) Pull the refrigerator away from the wall and brush or vacum the coils.
12) Wipe everything, jars and bottles included, with the soapy water, dry and put away.
13) Put vegetables and things that can be damaged by cold in the crisper.
14) Keep raw meat on the bottom on a tray or in a bowl so it cannot drip on other things.

Do not use abrasive cleaners, if you need something stonger to clean use 1 part white vinegar mixed with 2 parts water. A box of baking soda works well to absorb odors or activated charcoal, you can also use a plate of ground coffee but baking soda is easiest since it is self contained in its own box. Store everything in covered containers, round takes up too much room since it does not fit in corners. Gladware with interlocking lids work well and are freezer and dishwasher safe and can be used over again. I use stacking squares that all use the same lid but different volume. Try to keep it clean and wipe up spills immediatley, get rid of leftovers after a few days if you are not going to eat them and try not to buy more than you can eat before it spoils. You should also purchase and monitor a thermometer. Food must be held under 40 degrees and the colder the better being careful not to let fresh produce freeze.

As always I welcome questions and comments.

The challenges of a kitchen in a NYC apartment.

2010-05-12T18:16:00.000-07:00

I have always worked in large kitchens with room to spare. My current job has space to prepare, cook and serve 2000 college students everyday and have 30 chefs each having a designated work area that does interfere with each other. The day starts with a handful of people and the number grows as lunch approaches and again when dinner is being prepared, served and then cleaned up.

When I come home and on my days off I do find time to cook at home. Since I am away long hours each day it is sometimes the only time I can spend with my family. The hard part is figuring out what to do with such a small space. I found what happened is my small kitchen had become the catch all for anything I did not know what to do with and had become even smaller.

I packed anything I did not recognize or do not remember buying or ever using and donated it to a local shelter. I like to get rid of things this way since when I put them on the street it just gets thrown away instead of being put to use. I also post on craigslist but it is hard to get people to pick up even when it is free.

One of the first things I figured out is to have a well stocked not overstocked pantry. Canned goods, oils, vinegars, pastas and spices to name a few things. I also have a small butane single burner cook top I use when I need more stove top. It is also handy if the power goes out. Not only do I have enough food for several days in an emergency I also have a way to cook it and will not be hungry. I forgot to mention that I keep at least one bottle each of red and white wine, boxed low sodium soups and stocks, five types of salt, soy, rice and almond milk, three types of rice and at least five different flours.

For equipment everything I have gets used. I have pieces that are not for everyday cooking, a tagine and a terrine dish, but I do use them and have a small storge space to keep them up and out of the way. It is best to buy good quality, not always the most expensive, and to shop around until you find what you like. I did not buy a set and add to and take away from what I have as I go along.

Think about space before you by anything. If your freezer will not hold your purchases then there is no sense buying it. The same rule with the refrigerator. Being an impulse shopper or buying too much causes more problems and adds to the stress of shopping. I recently purchased a baking sheet pan, inexpensive but needed for a special project, without considering it. Got home, washed and sanitized it as I do with anything new, preheated the oven, mixed everything, rolled it, did the cut out shapes, loaded the pan, put it in the oven and could not close the door. Wow did this change how everything went.

Take your time and choose what you like. My blog will continue to address NYC apartment living and how to get around the confines of a small space.

Any comments or questions please let me know. M.

How safe is the food we eat?

2009-12-05T15:59:00.000-08:00

Wow, click on this link to read what the NY Times ran today. https://webmail.aramark.com/owa/redir.aspx?C=30f679034ec44b6ea87db9528ce77fe0&URL=http%3a%2f%2fwell.blogs.nytimes.com%2f2009%2f11%2f30%2fhow-safe-is-your-chicken-dinner%2f%3fex%3d1275368400%26en%3d0d6d6b5d4fe3b847%26ei%3d5087%26WT.mc_id%3dHL-D-I-NYT-MOD-MOD-M126-ROS-1209-HDR%26WT.mc_ev%3dclick
I am a big proponent of food safety and since I don't know how food was handled before it got to my kitchen I treat it very carefully. Everything in the article is true except nothing was mentioned about one very important thing. Wash your hands. Do this before, during and after handling any food and never touch raw chicken or even it's package and then handle anything else.

Cross contamination is so easy, you touch the package, open the refrigerator, turn on the water and wipe the counter with the same sponge you use to wash the dishes, it looks clean but what may have been on the package is now on everything you touched.

It is scarey to think of food as not being safe and I look at everything before purchase and preperation for my home and where I work. I inspect each item making sure that nothing is at the wrong temperature or damaged and if it is not right refuse it.

Keeping what we eat safe starts before it becomes available to us and product recall is not in our favor. Try this link http://www.fda.gov/Safety/Recalls/default.htm.

Cooking Thanksgiving Dinner Year 2009

2009-11-27T05:57:00.000-08:00

I have not written since moving but here goes. I did not cook at home for family or friends this year but had the opportunity to cook in a different setting. On Monday 11/23/09, with a small team, I cooked a traditional Thanksgiving meal for 1000. It is is not that different than cooking for 10 but does require more clean up. I will not explain how to cook for a group this large but if you are interested email me chef@matthewbabbage.com and I can answer any questions. I will give a basic recipe for stuffing and it is the one my mother always used just multiplied by about 100 times, I do not stuff the turkey but cook it in roasting pans.
Remember the health of your family and guests can depend on safe food handling practices, wash your hands before and after you touch any raw food item. I will always speak and write about the importance of sanitation when you are in the kitchen since it is one thing you can do to insure that you have a safe and healthy holiday. It is impossible to know how many cases of illness there are due to improper food preperation, handling and time verses temperature during cooking, serving and storage. The single thing that you can do to help prevent people from getting sick is to wash your hands again and again. If you have any questions wash them again.
My recipe for the stuffing is as follows.

20 loaves white bread cut in cubes
1 gallon fine diced celery sweated in 1 lb. butter until soft
1 gallon fine diced onion sweated in 1 lb. butter until soft
6 tablespoon each kosher salt and ground black pepper
3 tablespoons each ground sage and poultry seasoning
1 and 1/2 gallons turkey stock, if you chose to use canned stock cut the kosher salt in half

Cook the celery and onion and spread on a cooking pan to cool for 1/2 hour. Put all the ingredients in a large bowl with half the turkey stock and with gloved hands mix until everything is incorporated adding more turkey stock as needed. Divide the mix in five hotel pans and bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes or until the stuffing reaches 165 degrees.

How to Boil an Egg

2009-06-30T21:03:00.000-07:00

You need 4 things.

Eggs

Cold water

A pot large enough to cook them in a single layer

Heat

Everyone has a way to cook them but this method always works and the part that I find the most unpleasant, peeling the shell, takes no time at all.
1) Put eggs in pot and cover with 1 inch cold water.
2) Over medium heat bring to a boil and turn to a gentle simmer.
3) Cook for 5 minutes.
4) Turn off the heat and leave for 5 minutes.
5) Pour off the hot water and rinse with cold until cool enough to handle.
6) Crack each egg, put back in the pot, cover with cold water and let them sit for 10 minutes.
7) Remove the shell, it will slip right off.
8) Rinse and dry with paper towels. They are ready to use or store them in the refrigerator.

chef@matthewbabbage.com with any questions.

Soft Shell Crabs

2009-06-27T16:48:00.000-07:00

My first experience with crab, cooking for the All You Can Eat Alskan King Crab Leg Buffet. Things were different though when someone said " try this " and gave me a whole crab with a light crispy crust. Not knowing what to do I tried removing the shell and eating the contents. With a few kind words and a little instruction I was eating something that would change the way I cook.

Soft shell crabs are seasonal and available from early May to July and typically are blue crabs, Callinectes sapidius. Due to weather and fishing conditions they are at times not available. As the crabs grow they shed their exoskeleton which has become too small or "molt". They emerge with a soft covering and are "soft shells" ready for harvest. In as few as four days the shell begins to harden and they become " tinbacks" and will be a little crunchy when prepared. As they are caught, fishermen hold crabs beginning to molt until the cycle is complete and they are sent to market.

Buy the most active ones, they are not very strong out of water but watch for them to move. If the smell is not right keep looking. Kitchen trick, blow on them and watch to see if the eyes move. If this is something new start small and I recommend no more than two per person. Have the fish man clean them, you can do it yourself but it is easier to show you than trying to explain. If you are up to it there are many resources or email me at chef@matthewbabbage.com and I will give you step by step instructions. Cleaned or live do not let them get tossed in a plastic bag, have them put in a small flat container with dry towels or even better some of the straw they are shipped in. Get them home and in the refrigerator as soon as possible and eat them that day. I recommend the following preperation.

1) Mix 1 cup all purpose flour with 1/2 teaspoon each salt and pepper.

2) Put the crab on a clean plate and blot dry with paper towels.

3) Heat a 10" saute pan over medium heat with a 1/4 inch of vegetable oil until it is almost smoking. If you have a deep fryer heat to 350 degrees.

4) Two at a time press the crabs in the flour so they have a heavy coating on each side.

5) Shake off the excess flour and put them top side down in the hot oil. Be careful, as you put them in the pan lay them away from you so it splashes away rather than toward you.

6) Cook until brown, flip and cook the other side for a minute or two.

7) Remove and drain on paper towels.

8) They are ready.

The flavor is delicate, in my restaurant I serve them with caper mayonnaise. 1/2 cup mayonnaise mixed with the juice from 1/2 lemon and 1 tablespoon chopped capers. It does not mask the flavor and lets you enjoy the subtleness of the crab. Maybe a glass of crisp cold white wine is the only other thing I can think of.

chef 1.0

2009-06-19T23:17:00.000-07:00

I have been asked more times than I can remember what is required to be “Chef”. Not sure what is really being asked I answer a question with a question. “What do you mean”? My first apprehension is the way it is asked, not “what does it take to be a chef” but “what does it take to be Chef”. It would be the same if the question was “What does it take to be Coach, Captain, Team Leader, Mother or Father. The question is not easy to answer and anyone asked would have a different answer with as many similarities as differences. Experience in what you do will give you the knowledge to answer your own question.
I stop and think about what I will say since this needs my full attention and the one seeking guidance has come to me looking for support. I demonstrate what being “Chef “is and lead by example, this is not a time to send them away until later. I have worked in kitchens my whole life and have learned more how not to do things than how to do them. Maybe this is for the best since I work every day to make sure I don’t treat my culinary crew like they are expendable. Work hard to be the best you can not forgetting how you started and remember that you are only as good as those who support you is the answer I always give.

Food 101

2009-06-16T23:00:00.000-07:00

To all aspiring culinarians there are a few things that need to be understood when starting a job. You are the new person and it is like starting at a new school, keep your head down and watch what is going on around you. First impressions go a long way and your survival depends on being excepted.
1) Keep a notebook and use it.
2) Know your schedule.
3) Show up for work before your start time.
4) Be ready to work when you get there.
5) If a uniform is not supplied make sure you know what you are expected to wear.
6) Buy a good pair of shoes with no slip soles and wear them.
7) Wash your hands before you begin and keep washing them throughout your shift.
8) Buy one good chef’s knife. It does not have to be expensive but comfortable to use. Keep it sharp and clean.
9) Before you begin make sure the chef knows you are in and ask what is expected of you.
10) Become an asset not a liability. Make yourself indispensable.
11) Don’t forget to always be polite and do not forget your manners. Please, thank you and excuse me go a long way.
12) Understand you have chosen to work in a field which is always changing. Be flexible and ready to do what is asked.
13) When asked a question use one of three answers; yes chef, no chef and I don’t know chef.
14) Before you cook “your own food” show you can follow direction, demonstrate an understanding of fundamental cooking techniques and ask before you change anything.
15) Leave your cell phone at home.

June 7th

2009-06-07T16:41:00.000-07:00

Today is my oldest daughter Ashley's birthday she is 21, I remember the first time I held her, it does not seem like it was that long ago but it was. Her birthday has always been a way to date everything and not being there does not mean that I am not thinking of her. She was difficult to feed as a baby and picky as she grew. There was always one thing I knew she would eat if nothing else, egg and toast. I make it the same way now as I did then and is easy with a few instructions. Start with soft butter and do not try to substitute, use a shot glass and cut out the center of a piece of plain white bread. Heat a non stick pan over low heat, make one at a time and do not crowd the pan. Butter both sides of the bread and put in the pan, crack the egg in to a small dish making sure you don't break the yolk, get rid of a little of the white and pour the egg in the center of the bread and cook for a minute or two. Use a plastic spatula and flip it over being careful not to break the yolk and cook until it is golden brown. Salt and pepper is all you need and it is ready to eat. Don't forget to butter and toast the piece of bread you cut out with the shot glass it is the best part.

Tomatoes

2009-05-16T10:49:00.000-07:00

The varieties are endless, click on this link and you will see what I am writing about.
http://www.tomatobob.com/heirloom-tomato-photos.htm. What to grow is where it begins and having limited space I start with a few different seedlings in large pots placing them in the sunniest location. With a little planning the results are more than expected and if we can’t eat them fast enough I wipe them clean and freeze them in a brown paper bag to use later. They are one of my top 10 favorite foods and are good right from the vine with a little kosher salt and black pepper. Try cutting them in wedges and mixing with Hellman’s mayonnaise, salt and pepper in a bowl, the juice from the tomatoes with everything else makes a great dressing and start to finish only takes a few minutes. I do not refrigerate them, they get mealy, and use them as fast as possible. Another way is thick slices on fresh white bread with Hellman’s, salt and pepper. Best eaten over the kitchen sink since it is kind of messy, there is no graceful way. You don’t have to grow fresh vegetables to enjoy them, farm stands are every where, we shop at them in Manhattan, and Philadelphia since we live in both cities and it is said that Jersey tomatoes are the best. If no farm stands are available ask the produce manager at your local grocery store, if they don’t carry any with enough interest they will. If you follow food trends you will see that it always ends where it begins and starts all over again at the farm. I have been in kitchens my entire life with a few short breaks, this blog is to be thought provoking and inspiring like my cooking classes. Simple preparations yield great results, think about fruit at the peak of growing season for dessert. As always I welcome your comments.

I like butter

2009-05-15T09:25:00.000-07:00

If asked to give up one food it would not be butter. I can't imagine not being able to eat or cook with it, think about butter cream frosting or hollandaise, they would not exist. Yes I know there are good substitutions but to make them the correct way it is not possible. My solution so I can use butter when and where I like is to cut down or eliminate it in ways I will not notice it's absense. Try making mashed potatoes using olive oil in it's place and adding some of the cooking liquid until they are the right consistency. Just like making them with butter and milk you can use the same proportions, you will find that they are light and fluffy and seasoned with salt and pepper taste very good. You could also roast garlic and using more oil than you normally use and add that in place of the olive oil, roasted garlic mashed potatoes don't get any easier to make. I am not a nutritionist or claim to be one and now I can use the butter in some other way.

Fiddle Head Ferns

2009-05-14T08:39:00.000-07:00

Have you had the opportunity to try them? Only available for a few weeks in spring and sometimes frozen, their taste is a little like artichoke bottoms. My first memory was as a child in upstate NY, given a paring knife and told to go and cut them in a small spot my Mother new from the year before " don't pick the ones that have brown edges or have started to unroll and only cut two or three per plant so you don't kill them" were pretty much the only instructions given. After collecting them for what seemed like hours they were rinsed, cooked and on the table and are at the top 10 of any food I have ever eaten. Preparation is simple and think of serving them with any method used for asparagus. Start by boiling them in a pot of salted water for 2-3 minutes, drain, rinse in cold water and boil again for the same amount of time, this will reduce any bitterness. While they cook the second time toast some chopped garlic in olive oil until it is brown, drain the ferns and shake well and add to the garlic, season with kosher salt and ground black pepper and they are ready. If you are lucky enough to have some they do not keep well and should be eaten that day, if you have to store them wrap in a clean dry towel, no plastic, and keep in a spot not too cold in the refrigerator.

Mother's Day

2009-05-10T04:07:00.000-07:00

I am at work to start brunch before my team gets in and then preparing for a wine dinner in one dining room and musical performance with Kevin Costner in another. It will be a busy day and gone before you know it. My first thought this morning was of my wife, we have no children but do have dogs, cats and birds, it is a fury feathered family and I give her a Mother's Day card from them. My second thought was of my mother who has been gone for many years, my understanding of food comes from her. I know today she would make asparagus with Hollandaise.
Her preparation and mine are a bit different but the result is the same and no matter how many times I have made or will make it again I always judge it by her standards and would serve nothing less. I remember helping her make it using lots of butter, not clarified, egg yolks that came from her chickens or someone who lived close by and lemon juice with some salt and pepper, maybe this is why it is so hard to replicate since she kept it simple.
Happy Mother's Day Mom.

Food Today

2009-05-09T16:15:00.000-07:00

Oysters have always been one of my favorite things to eat. After trying more types than I can remember I have found that Saddle Rocks are very nice and are equally good raw or cooked . They were discovered in the 1800's from the original Saddle Rock formation in the East River near Norwalk Harbor. They became so popular they were gone in a few years but they were never forgotten. The name is now trademarked and no longer come from the East River but the Connecticut side of Long Island Sound. They are moderately salty with a sweet taste, easy to open, reasonably priced and not difficult to find where I live in the northeast. I prefer them straight from the shell with nothing more than a shot of Frank's Hot Sauce and a squeeze of fresh lemon. There is always concern for food safety with anything, remember what happened with peanuts earlier this year, and eating raw shellfish should not be dismissed. Know your supplier, use your sense of smell, if it does not seem right then it is probably not, ask questions and don't be affraid to go somewhere else. Anyone in the food or food service business should put food safety and the public first. Don't settle for anything other than the best and if it is not available try something else.